Catfish in Black Bean
Sauce
review by Cynthia Fuchs, 20 October 2000
Peace,
Out
Dwayne
(Chi Muoi Lo) and his sister Mai (Lauren Tom) have been living in
Los Angeles for some twenty-two years, ever since they fled Vietnam
in 1975, during the fall of Saigon, and were adopted by Harold (Paul
Winfield) and Dolores (Mary Alice). Dwayne appears to be fully
assimilated into U.S. culture, meaning that he listens to hiphop,
eats cereal while reading the box, uses slang like "Peace,
out," and shares an easy, trusting friendship which his sweet
white boy roommate Michael (Tyler Christopher). In addition, and
perhaps as further testament to his assimilation, Dwayne is fretting
about asking his pretty nurse girlfriend Nina (Sanaa Lathan) to
marry him. After an afternoon during which the time has never been
quite "right" enough to pull out the ring and pop the
question, Dwayne is at his wit's end. Partway through a barbeque at
his folks' place, he can't get Nina's attention, and he's fingering
the ring. Suddenly, Dwayne yells out the question, so that it seems
he's pledging his troth while in the throes of a fit of some kind.
The camera cuts to reaction shots: Harold, Alice, and Nina all
looking politely astonished and then, still politely, horrified. And
yet everyone carries on, as if this is all just fine.
Not
knowing how to react is a problem that runs throughout Chi Muoi Lo's
Catfish in Black Bean Sauce, which is named for a traditional
Vietnamese dish that originated in China. Seeking some kind of
settled identity within his mixed cultural heritage, Dwayne is
rather scrambling about. And you're privy to much of this process,
as the film provides scenes that are immediately revealed as his
"fantasies," anxieties making their way to the visual
foreground (for instance, he imagines Nina riding off with a traffic
cop on the back of his motorcycle). Such images are cute, but they
never have much at stake, and worse, instead of getting you inside
Dwayne's head, they tend to make you feel sorry for him or again,
not sure how to take him.
With
all his traumas concerning Nina, Dwayne is naturally preoccupied,
which means he doesn't see his next trauma coming. It turns out that
Mai, while ostensibly secure in her marriage with the infinitely
patient Vinh (Tza Ma), has also been "dealing" with her
anger and feelings of displacement; because she is older than
Dwayne, she has actual memories of their lives before. The result:
she tracks down their birth mother in Vietnam, and brings her to the
States. Once Thanh (Kieu Chinh) arrives, however, she is less
interested in her daughter than in her son -- who frankly would
rather have nothing to do with her. Thanh turns down Mai's offer of
a room (which has been in preparation for months) and moves in with
Dwayne and Michael. No surprise, this leads to something of an
identity crisis for Dwayne, who begins to recover his Vietnamese
roots, re-adopting his birth name, Pho, and rejecting Harold and
Alice. At the same time, and in a sort of secondary-plot overkill,
Michael is going through his own crisis, as it comes out that his
flamboyant Chinese girlfriend Samantha (Wing Chen) is a transvestite
who once went by the name of Sam (she's either pre-op or
never-going-to-op, it's never quite clear).
These
emotionally charged situations are too often turned into broad
comedy, showing the family members learning to accept one another
despite their obvious turf anxieties. One set piece in particular
illustrates the various dynamics and battles. Thanh comes with
Dwayne to dinner at Harold and Alice's, and when Thanh finds the
Chinese food that Alice has prepared not quite tasty enough, she
pulls out a bottle of Vietnamese sauce. Not knowing how to react --
again -- the rest of the group either abstains altogether or douses
their food with the sauce, grimace, and attempt to hide their
distaste. This comic-hijinksy moment is followed up by a
morning-after scene, where Harold is feeling the effects of the
sauce. This would be the clear cost of cultural mixing.
For
all its clumsiness, however, Catfish does make some
potentially pressing points. One has to do with the differences
between the ways that generations handle cultural and racial
disparities: while Mai often behaves as if she's mothering -- or
scolding -- Dwayne, when she's with her mother(s), you realize that
in fact, she is a daughter, trying to come to grips with her
position between one culture and another, and more to the point, one
mother and another. While good-natured Harold tends to stay out of
the way, the two older women are hard at it in their competition,
not so much for the children's affections as their declarations of
loyalty. This is surely a relationship worth exploring, but the
film's low point comes when the two mothers have it out, clawing at
each other's hair and flailing about with their balled-up fists, in
Dwayne's living room, before yet another assembly of astonished
viewers.
That
these viewers include Michael and Samantha is another potentially
interesting issue that the film never quite wrestles to a
conclusion. Michael is going through his own "issue,"
insisting to Dwayne that he's not "gay," because Samantha
looks like a girl. And Samantha, well, she's a drama queen in most
every way, and the butt of a couple of audience in-jokes when Thanh
points to her as an example of an "appropriate" wife for
Dwayne, as opposed to Nina. But this is tedious joking at Samantha's
and Thanh's expense, skipping over Dwayne's real confusions about
his allegiances -- to black, U.S., Vietnamese, or masculine
cultures. Or, more precisely, he's confused about whether
allegiances are necessary to understand himself as a whole and
worthy individual. This is a real question, and one he (or anyone,
for that matter) might be better off asking without having to
perform the answers for audiences, on and off screen. Too often glib
in its presentation of complex concerns, at its best, Catfish in
Black Bean Sauce explores the costs of passing judgments. In the
end, not knowing how to react may be the most honest and potentially
productive reaction.
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Written
and
Directed by:
Chi Muoi Lo
Starring:
Mary Alice
Paul Winfield
Chi Muoi Lo
Lauren Tom
Kieu Chinh
Wing Chen
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